Sunday, October 17, 2010

Almost Home

It is really hard to believe that I have less than a week left here at Mas Bellpuig. It feels like I have been working my way up to this time for so long, that I can't quite believe it is finally here. Don't get me wrong, I am really excited to see my parents in 6 days, and to get back to the states where I understand what the people around me are saying, and to see all of my friends, but this life is also really wonderful. However, before I start getting too sentimental, let me tell you more stories since last time.

I'm getting used to the rhythm of life here and the cycle of work in the week. It's very pleasant, and the romantic aspects of farming come through very strong in all of the tasks here. That might not be totally clear, imagine with me getting up every morning before the sun is up (not a hard thing to imagine I'm sure) and quickly throwing more layers on before going upstairs to the kitchen, partly because you want breakfast, and partly because it is the only room in the house with a wood stove, and therefore infinitely warmer than the rest of the house. After taking your time with your coffee and muesli, it is time to work, and you descend old stone stairs into the cellar, which is home to not only the tools you will need but a shop stocked with beautiful fruits and veggies and preserves. As you step outside to begin work, the last blush of dawn is still painting the mountains across the valley a slightly rosy color, and making the green of the fields even more brilliant. The air is crisp as you grab a wheelbarrow and follow the boss down the hill to the whichever field needs tending today, and know that by the time two o'clock rolls around, you will be tired and dirty, but that a hot, homecooked lunch followed by a siesta await you. This is the romance of farming, and this is what this place has given me a taste of.


My favorite jobs are always harvesting things, especially the giant heads of broccoli we collected on Friday. For those of you who don't share my passion for broccoli, try to imagine your own favorite vegetable. But anyway, we went down to the broccoli fields this week to find that the 3 days of rain we had had put the broccoli into overdrive and some of these heads of broccoli weighed over a kilo (2.2 lbs)! That's a head of broccoli the size of a dinner plate that I got to cut myself and take up to the kitchen and enjoy. There is nothing better than spending an hour harvesting in the field and being able to look at the tower of boxes filled with fresh beautiful vegetables that you just collected. I will really miss having such a tangible product to my work.

We have been lucky enough to have a few other romanticized excursions, including a night of traditional Catalonian dancing. Gerard took myself and Marisa up into a little village in the mountains where about 40 people of all ages from the surrounds had gathered in a little pavilion to listen to live, traditional Catalan music and dance. The band consisted of three men, the leader of whom was an impressive musician who was often playing a flute with one hand and simultaneously a drum with the other. The other men played a mixture of guitars, flutes, drums, bagpipes (yes, bagpipes) and castenettes depending on the song. The dances also varied. Some of them involved the whole group dancing together in a circle sort of like a Spanish version of a line-dance, but others involved dancing in couples, for which Gerard alternated between dancing with myself and Marisa. Dancing with Gerard was really fun because he was not only a great dancer, but a great teacher. He taught me dances called "the Scottish" and the "mazurca" (there is little chance that I spelled that correctly), which were both simple to begin with but he complicated them with spins and twirls by the end. As we were driving home, Gerard also told me that I dance very well, which means I can die happy having been complimented on my dancing by a Spaniard.

Marisa and I have also been enjoying exploring some of the small towns in the area. Last week was Centelles, a really tiny but beautiful village in the mountains, and this week we went to the beach town of Sitges, a town about 30 minutes outside Barcelona by train. The beaches were wonderful, and we mostly just lay on the beach and read that afternoon before wandering around the city a bit that night and splitting a picher of sangria and some really wonderful tapas. Sitges had a quite a bit going on in addition to the beaches. There was a horror film festival going on (Jud I wish you could have been there to tell me if you had heard of any of the directors), which is supposed to be pretty legit, and we saw no less than 3 weddings. The weddings absolutely fit with the town, in fact Marisa and I were commenting on the fact that we wouldn't have minded getting married there. However, at the rate I'm going, my dream wedding would be more of a world tour with receptions in Gamla Stan, Nerja, Frigliana, and Sitges.

We were also lucky enough to convince Gerard to let us take a Thursday night off and go to the medieval town of Girona which is also about an hour outside of Barcelona. It was a truly magical little town. The whole town is made of beautiful stone buildings with narrow streets and a balconied apartments with flower pots overflowing over the railings. And, much to my delight, lots of stairs. The old wall which once enclosed the city also still stands, and in much the same way as Castillo de Gibralfaro, affords really wonderful views of the city and mountains. Marisa and I went for a really lovely walk along this wall, which terminated at an archeaological garden. Basically, it was a chamber which used to be enclosed by the wall (though I don't know what it was used for), but is now home to lots of trees and flower gardens.

Well, some time has passed since I initially wrote this post, so I figure it is high time I posted it. I promise there will be more pictures and a final post on my end adventures (and there have been quite a few) in Spain in the next week, since I will be back home then!

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Slowly but Surely

It is amazing how much one can learn in a week and a half. Having been in Vic (which is a beautiful town about an hour north of Barcelona) at Mas Bellpuig (Bell-pooch) for a little more than a week now, my Spanish has vastly improved. This is not to say that I can understand people speaking Spanish on the street, but if my host Gerard speaks to me slowly and uses very simple words, I can follow the thread of the conversation and make simple responses. Hooray for learning.

My time here got off to a rather rocky start because Gerard was away for the first two days I was here, and no one in the house spoke more than a little English. So I spent two days relying pretty solely upon charade worthy hand gestures and sound effects. However, now that Gerard is back and I have been joined by another American WWOOFer named Marisa who just graduated from Yale, as well as a really wonderful young German family, things have been a lot better. The house itself is really beautiful, and parts of the original structure date to the 12th century. Gerard's family has owned it for roughly 30 generations. There is no doubt that the house has the weight of history behind it, the finished parts are really beautiful with high ceiling and exposed beams, and the unfinished parts (aka zona de WWOOFer) have old wood and stone revealed, and make it feel like I am living in a castle. We just started to work on renovating and finishing zona de WWOOFer, which has been a very interesting experience involving chipping away at these old stone walls. I've been lucky thus far, and for space reasons, my room is in the finished part, and easily 3 times as big as the caravan in Nerja, and there is a chandelier hanging over my bed. Pure luxury. I really wish that, like the kitchen table in Bossgarden, this house could come alive and tell me stories of the things it has seen.

The work has been hard but varied and enjoyable here. The daily schedule is very relaxed and very Spanish. We start work at 8...or 8:15...or 8:30...or 9, and work until about 2 when we have lunch, which always takes over an hour, and then it is siesta time for the WWOOFers at least, and we are free for the rest of the day. We usually eat an evening meal at around 9 or 9:30, and then sit and chat until bed. My jobs have mostly been in the field and have included harvesting potatoes, different types of beans, peeling about 12 kilos of garlic so we can plant it, and planting fava beans. There are also a bunch of animals here, including cows, chickens, pigs (which always sound and smell just wonderful), cats, a big beautiful horse named Moreno, and a dog named Bobby. The food we have been eating has been really, really good, and I have had to be very diligent about portion control. We have mostly been cooking for ourselves, but every so often we get the leftovers from Gerard's parents or from his grandmother, and they can cook, let me tell you. I've been taking notes on good ideas to incorporate into my own cooking when I get home, but I don't think it will be the same without the garden fresh ingredients. One can hope though.

So far I don't have too many adventures to report. I have been into Vic twice, to get coffee and a tour of the city with Gerard and the other WWOOFers, and to go to the market which takes place every Saturday. The market is a pretty incredible scene. There is a big plaza in the middle of the city which vendor upon vendor squeeze into and sell everything from bread and pasteries, to live chickens and cheap clothing. I'm also pretty sure the entire population of the city squeezes into this market, such that the atmosphere is bustling with the energy of both shopping and weekly socializing. It is really exciting for someone who has never seen a market like this before, like me.



The best looking vegetable stand at the market




More views of the market, and Gerard's back


A street in Vic, the little spot is Bobby who followed Marisa and I for the entirety of our 6 km walk in


A view of the fields and mountains on my running route