Yesterday and today I celebrated my birthday for the first time ever by spending the afternoon laying on the beach, in my bathing suit, eating local, tropical fruits. I'd like to think that this will not be the last time in my life I'm able to do this, but I think for the foreseeable future, I will be back in the States braving the cold as usual. However, I certainly managed to live it up for my one year of tropical birthday fun (and managed to get the strangest sunburn of my life...only the inside of my bellybutton. To quote Will Ferrel 'I'm not even mad, just impressed). Thank you so much to all of you who sent along birthday wishes, I really appreciate them! The rest of the day, not spent at the beach, was also delightful. My roommate, Steffie, surprised me with pancakes in the morning, and chocolate cupcakes in the evening (in addition to the brownie cupcakes with peanut butter frosting I made for myself). School was really nice, as we had an excursion (more on school in a moment), and then I went out to a fantastic cocktail bar with fellow Williams '10 Liz Miller. The drinks are some of the most interesting I have ever had, with all sorts of interesting fresh fruit juices, just lovely. Liz and I also went back to Old Biscuit Mill this morning, and I treated myself to a delightful chocolate tart topped with a little bit of gold leaf, just because it was my birthday.
I've also gotten started at Alpha School for Learners with Autism since my last post. The first week and a half I was just observing teachers and classes, with very little idea of what to be looking for or understanding of how these classes worked, which was really really frustrating and boring. Because the term was just starting, the teachers were mostly focusing on just getting the kids back into the routines of the classroom, and adjusted to new classrooms in some cases, so they weren't really doing much in the way of teaching with them. Thus, there was one afternoon where I literally sat and watched 7 boys sit quietly and read magazines or play with toys for 2 hours. At least until one of them finally did something interesting and threw a tantrum saying "I can't stay here any longer, I have to go home!" In my head I was thinking,"I'm right there with you my friend".
However, this past week I was finally out of my observational period, and have been given 9 learners with whom I will be doing occupational therapy this term. They (and I) need your prayers on this as I have basically given myself a crash course on OT, and yet here I am trying to help them with their motor development in the next four months. The certified OT (Eleen) with whom I am working has assured me that just the one-on-one attention and exercise I give them is important and that I shouldn't get discouraged if I feel like I'm not "doing anything" with them, but I'd like to actually help these kids if that's what I'm here for. All of them are really sweet and range in age from 6-14. After one meeting, they have all been mostly cooperative, but I still am working on trying to parse out when they are not following directions because of lack of ability or understanding, and when they just don't want to listen to me. We're getting there. I've also started to get to know the other intern at Alpha, who is an American woman my age named Britany, from Scranton, PA. She's very opinionated and sarcastic which makes her a fun person to listen to when she gets going in a rant. Luckily, we share a lot of the same views, so I've been having a good time laughing with her in our volunteer room while we do "administrative work". Lately, this has mostly meant coloring and painting, so I can't complain.
Well, I have a date with a movie, a cupcake, and our house's rooftop pillows, so I am going to say goodbye for now!
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Sunday, January 16, 2011
What a Week
By far, this has been the most action packed week I have had in my travels this year. Since I start working tomorrow, and it is already 10 PM local time, this post won't go in depth into everything I've been up to, but I will try to hit the highlights(the internet connection here is also egregiously slow, so there won't be many pictures, but I will try to include a few really good ones).
So as I left off in my last post, I was trying to find a way to occupy my time this week, and explore the city all by myself. I did indeed make it down to the waterfront, which is nice, but largely dominated by shops and restaurants, so not terribly interesting culturally. However, there is a huge craft market with all sorts of locally made goods, including artwork, furnishings, and jewelry. Needless to say I had a great time wandering around the place, as everything was just bursting with color and excitement.
If you have ever done any travelling to a major foreign city, you may have seen these large, open -top, double decker tour buses driving around. Normally, I sort of shun these buses as a lame tourist trap, as it is so much more interesting to explore a city on foot. However, in this case, when I wasn't sure that option was available to me, these buses were great. There were two routes, one that focused on the city center (known as the city bowl because it is surrounded by mountains), and another route that focuses on slightly wider surrounds of the city on the other side of Table Mountain. While touring around the city itself, I stopped at the District Six Museum, and the Old Good Hope Castle. If you are unfamiliar with the story of District Six, as I was, the story was the inspiration for the movie District Nine. In the age of apartheid, District Six was a multi-cultural neighborhood inhabited mostly by black and "colored" South Africans near the city center. In the '80's the government decided that the land could be used for more expensive white-only neighborhoods, and evicted the inhabitants to the townships (slums) in Cape Flats, and completely razed the neighborhood. Apartheid ended shortly there after, and the area remains undeveloped today because the city has been unable to develop the land without the consent of the former inhabitants. The empty space near the city center stands as a testament to the legacy of this suffering. I want to go back at some point, because I felt like this trip was so much about becoming informed for me, that I didn't let the stories properly move me. Old Good Hope Castle is the oldest castle in South Africa, and has some really beautiful Dutch architecture.
That night, some of my roommates and I climbed Lion's Head to watch the sunset. This was unbelievably beautiful. The hike is only about an hour long, and the trial head only a 15 minute drive from my house, but when you get up there, it feels like you have left the city entirely. The climb involves true climbing up rock faces, and the view from the top includes Camp's Bay(a really beautiful beach), Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles, and the city. Also important to mention in setting the scene is that the sun sets over the ocean, which is important to me as an east coast girl because I'd never seen this before. Unfortunately, my words and pictures will be inadequate at capturing the sublime beauty of the place.
The following day, I took the bus to explore some of the surrounds of Cape Town. I had been taught in school, and understand that large mountains will often have completely different climates on one side versus the other because of the way they block rain clouds. However, Table Mountain is the first mountain I have ever been to where this is so apparent in such a small space. After a 20 minute bus ride to the other side of the mountain, I was transported from the rough, scrubby ecosystem near Cape Town, to a much more lush Afro-Mountain forest. One of the places I stopped while on the other side of the mountain was Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, which specializes in native flora. I spent two hours here wandering the grounds, and especially the useful plants garden, without even realizing it. The place is absolutely magical, with lots of little nooks to hide and enjoy a picnic or simply enjoy the weather. From there, I took the bus to Camp's Bay, a beautiful beach popular with models and celebrities, and spent a hour or two laying on the beach reading a book. I didn't go in the water partially because I had no one to watch my things, and partly because the water in the summer is only about 50 degrees farenheit. Too cold to simply float and enjoy, like we did in Hilton Head. I think my biggest accomplishment from these two days was managing to spend all of this time outside without getting sunburned. If you've spent anytime with me at the beach or a frisbee tournament, than you can understand that is no mean feat.
Thursday was supposed to be a quiet day, just wandering around the busy city center and sitting and reading in a park near my house that I have been jogging in a few times. However this was just not to be. While sitting and reading, I was mugged. I'm totally fine, and luckily I had been given the very good advice of carrying as little on me as possible, so they only took 20 rand ($3), and my old phone. The experience was pretty scary, but my housemates were wonderful when they got home, and made me tea, helped me get a new simcard, and Tineke had an old phone she let me have. They also assured me that this experience was mostly bad luck, and not common in that area. Needless to say, I have learned my lesson, and will not be sitting and reading in that park anymore.
Friday night marked my first professional football match, in Green Point Stadium, which is one of the stadiums where the world cup was held. That match was unlike any other sporting event I have ever been to, and after I leave Cape Town, will likely ever be at again. Luckily, there were far fewer vuvuzelas in the crowd than during the world cup, but the few that were there were definitely loud enough. The people in the stands around us were also amazing. We were sitting in the cheap seats, which meant we were sitting with mostly black fans. Our behavior and spirit at sporting events has absolutely nothing on them. They were dancing and singing, often in 3 and 4 part harmonies. In combination with really great football happening on the field made this the most fun I have ever had at a professional sporting match.
Yesterday, some of my housemates and I drove about an hour to Gordon's Bay, so that we could hike into the Crystal Pools. The Pools are hidden about an hours hike (and sometimes climb) from the road through more scrubby, dry hills. If I hadn't been told ahead of time that the pools were back there, I never would have believed it. However, once we reached the pools, they were a lot like what I imagined the Garden of Eden must have been like. They are a string of oasises filled with cool, refreshing water to swim in, rocks from which to jump (up to more than 60 feet high, don't worry mom and dad, I only jumped from about 10 feet), and beautiful waterfalls. We had a great time sunning on rocks, jumping in, and repeatin the pattern for a few hours. They are a truly magical spot.
Alright, it's now 11 PM and Karin is picking me up at 9, tomorrow morning, so I think it is time to get ready for bed. Say a prayer for me as I settle into my new job for the next five months tomorrow!
The view of the city from Lion's Head
Table Mountain and the clouds blowing over it, forming the "Table Cloth"
So as I left off in my last post, I was trying to find a way to occupy my time this week, and explore the city all by myself. I did indeed make it down to the waterfront, which is nice, but largely dominated by shops and restaurants, so not terribly interesting culturally. However, there is a huge craft market with all sorts of locally made goods, including artwork, furnishings, and jewelry. Needless to say I had a great time wandering around the place, as everything was just bursting with color and excitement.
If you have ever done any travelling to a major foreign city, you may have seen these large, open -top, double decker tour buses driving around. Normally, I sort of shun these buses as a lame tourist trap, as it is so much more interesting to explore a city on foot. However, in this case, when I wasn't sure that option was available to me, these buses were great. There were two routes, one that focused on the city center (known as the city bowl because it is surrounded by mountains), and another route that focuses on slightly wider surrounds of the city on the other side of Table Mountain. While touring around the city itself, I stopped at the District Six Museum, and the Old Good Hope Castle. If you are unfamiliar with the story of District Six, as I was, the story was the inspiration for the movie District Nine. In the age of apartheid, District Six was a multi-cultural neighborhood inhabited mostly by black and "colored" South Africans near the city center. In the '80's the government decided that the land could be used for more expensive white-only neighborhoods, and evicted the inhabitants to the townships (slums) in Cape Flats, and completely razed the neighborhood. Apartheid ended shortly there after, and the area remains undeveloped today because the city has been unable to develop the land without the consent of the former inhabitants. The empty space near the city center stands as a testament to the legacy of this suffering. I want to go back at some point, because I felt like this trip was so much about becoming informed for me, that I didn't let the stories properly move me. Old Good Hope Castle is the oldest castle in South Africa, and has some really beautiful Dutch architecture.
That night, some of my roommates and I climbed Lion's Head to watch the sunset. This was unbelievably beautiful. The hike is only about an hour long, and the trial head only a 15 minute drive from my house, but when you get up there, it feels like you have left the city entirely. The climb involves true climbing up rock faces, and the view from the top includes Camp's Bay(a really beautiful beach), Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles, and the city. Also important to mention in setting the scene is that the sun sets over the ocean, which is important to me as an east coast girl because I'd never seen this before. Unfortunately, my words and pictures will be inadequate at capturing the sublime beauty of the place.
The following day, I took the bus to explore some of the surrounds of Cape Town. I had been taught in school, and understand that large mountains will often have completely different climates on one side versus the other because of the way they block rain clouds. However, Table Mountain is the first mountain I have ever been to where this is so apparent in such a small space. After a 20 minute bus ride to the other side of the mountain, I was transported from the rough, scrubby ecosystem near Cape Town, to a much more lush Afro-Mountain forest. One of the places I stopped while on the other side of the mountain was Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, which specializes in native flora. I spent two hours here wandering the grounds, and especially the useful plants garden, without even realizing it. The place is absolutely magical, with lots of little nooks to hide and enjoy a picnic or simply enjoy the weather. From there, I took the bus to Camp's Bay, a beautiful beach popular with models and celebrities, and spent a hour or two laying on the beach reading a book. I didn't go in the water partially because I had no one to watch my things, and partly because the water in the summer is only about 50 degrees farenheit. Too cold to simply float and enjoy, like we did in Hilton Head. I think my biggest accomplishment from these two days was managing to spend all of this time outside without getting sunburned. If you've spent anytime with me at the beach or a frisbee tournament, than you can understand that is no mean feat.
Thursday was supposed to be a quiet day, just wandering around the busy city center and sitting and reading in a park near my house that I have been jogging in a few times. However this was just not to be. While sitting and reading, I was mugged. I'm totally fine, and luckily I had been given the very good advice of carrying as little on me as possible, so they only took 20 rand ($3), and my old phone. The experience was pretty scary, but my housemates were wonderful when they got home, and made me tea, helped me get a new simcard, and Tineke had an old phone she let me have. They also assured me that this experience was mostly bad luck, and not common in that area. Needless to say, I have learned my lesson, and will not be sitting and reading in that park anymore.
Friday night marked my first professional football match, in Green Point Stadium, which is one of the stadiums where the world cup was held. That match was unlike any other sporting event I have ever been to, and after I leave Cape Town, will likely ever be at again. Luckily, there were far fewer vuvuzelas in the crowd than during the world cup, but the few that were there were definitely loud enough. The people in the stands around us were also amazing. We were sitting in the cheap seats, which meant we were sitting with mostly black fans. Our behavior and spirit at sporting events has absolutely nothing on them. They were dancing and singing, often in 3 and 4 part harmonies. In combination with really great football happening on the field made this the most fun I have ever had at a professional sporting match.
Yesterday, some of my housemates and I drove about an hour to Gordon's Bay, so that we could hike into the Crystal Pools. The Pools are hidden about an hours hike (and sometimes climb) from the road through more scrubby, dry hills. If I hadn't been told ahead of time that the pools were back there, I never would have believed it. However, once we reached the pools, they were a lot like what I imagined the Garden of Eden must have been like. They are a string of oasises filled with cool, refreshing water to swim in, rocks from which to jump (up to more than 60 feet high, don't worry mom and dad, I only jumped from about 10 feet), and beautiful waterfalls. We had a great time sunning on rocks, jumping in, and repeatin the pattern for a few hours. They are a truly magical spot.
Alright, it's now 11 PM and Karin is picking me up at 9, tomorrow morning, so I think it is time to get ready for bed. Say a prayer for me as I settle into my new job for the next five months tomorrow!
Me, Steffy, Tineke, and Hessel at the Crystal Pools
A view of the Twelve Apostles from Camp's Bay
Linda, Me, Hessel, Steffy, and Tineke on Lion's Head. I know it looks really photo-shopped, but I promise it is just the flash. We really are there.
The view of the city from Lion's Head
Table Mountain and the clouds blowing over it, forming the "Table Cloth"
Saturday, January 8, 2011
A New Continent
After a solid 36 hours of travelling, spanning 3 days, I have finally arrived in Cape Town. The city is absolutely beautiful, and kind of reminiscient of Nerja in the way it is nestled between the ocean and the mountains. Upon arrival, Karin (my in-country coordinator) met me at the airport and took me around the city to get me a new sim card for my phone, groceries, and settled into my house. As if this wasn't enough activity fresh off a 12 hour flight, Karin also took me up Signal Hill with is one of the smaller hills outside the city, but with beautiful views of the ocean, Table Mountain, and Lion's Head. My poor, Scandinavian, winterized skin already started to burn after 15 minutes of enjoying the view. I have a feeling that the South African sunscreen companies are going to make quite a bit of money off of me.
My roommates thus far have been really wonderful and have taken me out around the city a little bit, including to a bar on the 31st floor of a bank building with views of the harbor. It was beautiful, and an interesting introduction to the nightlife in Cape Town, which is quite vibrant. This morning, Tineke, the Dutch girl I am sharing a room with, took me to a really wonderful market called the Old Biscuit Mill. A number of gourmet restaurants in town have set up stalls there, and sell small dishes as a way of promoting their restaurants, and there are also a number of other small organic vendors selling all sorts of spreads, sweets, and drinks. It was a similar atmosphere to the Boqueria in Barcelona, except all gourmet prepared foods. Basically a foodie heaven.
My internship does not start until a week from Monday, so I have this week to be on vacation and explore the city a little bit, which I am planning to start tomorrow with a trip to the waterfront, and perhaps some of the museums. I need to take a slightly different approach with exploring Cape Town than I took while in Europe. Simply grabbing a map and wandering around alone just doesn't fly here in the same way.
View of Devil's Peak and Table Mountain from Signal Hill
My roommates thus far have been really wonderful and have taken me out around the city a little bit, including to a bar on the 31st floor of a bank building with views of the harbor. It was beautiful, and an interesting introduction to the nightlife in Cape Town, which is quite vibrant. This morning, Tineke, the Dutch girl I am sharing a room with, took me to a really wonderful market called the Old Biscuit Mill. A number of gourmet restaurants in town have set up stalls there, and sell small dishes as a way of promoting their restaurants, and there are also a number of other small organic vendors selling all sorts of spreads, sweets, and drinks. It was a similar atmosphere to the Boqueria in Barcelona, except all gourmet prepared foods. Basically a foodie heaven.
My internship does not start until a week from Monday, so I have this week to be on vacation and explore the city a little bit, which I am planning to start tomorrow with a trip to the waterfront, and perhaps some of the museums. I need to take a slightly different approach with exploring Cape Town than I took while in Europe. Simply grabbing a map and wandering around alone just doesn't fly here in the same way.
View of Devil's Peak and Table Mountain from Signal Hill
Monday, January 3, 2011
So, I Lied a Little
It has been far more than a week since I returned home from Barcelona, and I have shared no more stories or pictures. As I am in Heathrow now, the updates will be brief, and photos absent. The good news, however, is that I will start being more regular in my updates once I get down to South Africa, so keep checking back!
Alright to wrap up my adventures in Spain. The last week at Mas Bellpuig was very chilly, I think I spent most of the time with a layer of underarmour as well as a sweater and sweatshirt on. We did a lot more planting, and Marisa and I accidentally let the cows out. Gerard's father, Carlos, was not pleased with us. On my last night there, Gerard took Marisa, a Chinese WWOOFer named Fan, and I to the circus. Luckily, the comedy relied mostly on slapstick, so it was pretty easy to keep up even though neither of us followed a word of the Catalan. Perhaps the highlight of the evening, however, came during the intermission when the four of us went to a nearby pub to get sandwiches. The place was deserted except for a few locals at the bar, but this didn't stop Fan from breaking it down in the middle of the pub, all by herself. The locals started cheering and created this wonderfully surreal and awkward moment that Marisa and I shared. Anyway, very strange.
Directly after I left Vic, I met my parents in Barcelona, and we spent a week on vacation, which was wonderful. We stayed in a lovely little hotel deep in the Barri Gotic, a few blocks from La Rambla. I ran up and down La Rambla on a few mornings, including one morning in which there was some sort of charity race going on. This wouldn't have been a big deal as I was running the other way on the wrong side of the street, except that I was wearing a bright orange t-shirt...just like everyone else in the race. Thus, people all along the route kept turning around and cheering for me and trying to tell me I was going the wrong way. Some of our other adventures included visited Gaudi masterpieces like Sagrada Familia (which, as of 11/7 was consecrated by the Pope and therefore the interior is finally considered "complete"), La Pedrera, and Park Guell, as well as the Palau de Musica, which was a truly unbelievable sensory experience. We also ate a lot. And when I say we ate a lot, it is important that this statement is considered in the context of the Widings. When we decide to eat and enjoy a good meal, this usually involves a number of courses, a bottle of wine for my dad and I, and might add up to the day's worth of calories at dinner alone. Now imagine these meals composed of heavy, rich Catalan cooking every night for a week. It is perhaps no wonder than that we all had some degree of digestive distress at some point throughout the week. The food was so unbelieveable that I would posit it was worth it. Marisa also came down to Barcelona to visit one afternoon, which gave us time to wander the city a bit more, and head down to the waterfront. In the course of our wandering she also told me that since I left she had discovered that the Mencos Bellpuigs are in fact Spanish royalty, marquis to be exact. This explains how the house and land has been in their family for 900 years.
My parents and I also spent two night in Madrid. While it was a very short trip, I think we managed to get quite a bit out of it, albeit mostly tourist attractions. I really loved the tour of the Royal Palace we went on, as well as the Flamenco dancing we saw. If you've never really seen flamenco, it is a loud, high energy dance that gets really in your face, since the raised stage puts the dancers feet right at eye level. Madrid had a completely different feel from Barcelona; it felt a lot like I was walking around New York, but with different architecture. Based on my limited experience with both cities, I think I have to say I liked Barcelona better, if only because it felt more unusual.
And finally, updates about since I have been home. I've been very busy running all over the east coast going to med school interviews, which have resulted in an acceptance to Tufts thus far. I'm thrilled about this as Tufts is a great program, and many of my close friends from Williams now work and live in Boston. However, I also really like Columbia and UPenn, from whom I will not hear until mid-March. I also attempted and failed to find some sort of gainful employment, which meant I got spend a lot of time with my parents, who were also kind enough to hire me for a number of household chores. Alright, so my time is almost up, but I will be sure to let you know how Cape Town is once I settle in!
Alright to wrap up my adventures in Spain. The last week at Mas Bellpuig was very chilly, I think I spent most of the time with a layer of underarmour as well as a sweater and sweatshirt on. We did a lot more planting, and Marisa and I accidentally let the cows out. Gerard's father, Carlos, was not pleased with us. On my last night there, Gerard took Marisa, a Chinese WWOOFer named Fan, and I to the circus. Luckily, the comedy relied mostly on slapstick, so it was pretty easy to keep up even though neither of us followed a word of the Catalan. Perhaps the highlight of the evening, however, came during the intermission when the four of us went to a nearby pub to get sandwiches. The place was deserted except for a few locals at the bar, but this didn't stop Fan from breaking it down in the middle of the pub, all by herself. The locals started cheering and created this wonderfully surreal and awkward moment that Marisa and I shared. Anyway, very strange.
Directly after I left Vic, I met my parents in Barcelona, and we spent a week on vacation, which was wonderful. We stayed in a lovely little hotel deep in the Barri Gotic, a few blocks from La Rambla. I ran up and down La Rambla on a few mornings, including one morning in which there was some sort of charity race going on. This wouldn't have been a big deal as I was running the other way on the wrong side of the street, except that I was wearing a bright orange t-shirt...just like everyone else in the race. Thus, people all along the route kept turning around and cheering for me and trying to tell me I was going the wrong way. Some of our other adventures included visited Gaudi masterpieces like Sagrada Familia (which, as of 11/7 was consecrated by the Pope and therefore the interior is finally considered "complete"), La Pedrera, and Park Guell, as well as the Palau de Musica, which was a truly unbelievable sensory experience. We also ate a lot. And when I say we ate a lot, it is important that this statement is considered in the context of the Widings. When we decide to eat and enjoy a good meal, this usually involves a number of courses, a bottle of wine for my dad and I, and might add up to the day's worth of calories at dinner alone. Now imagine these meals composed of heavy, rich Catalan cooking every night for a week. It is perhaps no wonder than that we all had some degree of digestive distress at some point throughout the week. The food was so unbelieveable that I would posit it was worth it. Marisa also came down to Barcelona to visit one afternoon, which gave us time to wander the city a bit more, and head down to the waterfront. In the course of our wandering she also told me that since I left she had discovered that the Mencos Bellpuigs are in fact Spanish royalty, marquis to be exact. This explains how the house and land has been in their family for 900 years.
My parents and I also spent two night in Madrid. While it was a very short trip, I think we managed to get quite a bit out of it, albeit mostly tourist attractions. I really loved the tour of the Royal Palace we went on, as well as the Flamenco dancing we saw. If you've never really seen flamenco, it is a loud, high energy dance that gets really in your face, since the raised stage puts the dancers feet right at eye level. Madrid had a completely different feel from Barcelona; it felt a lot like I was walking around New York, but with different architecture. Based on my limited experience with both cities, I think I have to say I liked Barcelona better, if only because it felt more unusual.
And finally, updates about since I have been home. I've been very busy running all over the east coast going to med school interviews, which have resulted in an acceptance to Tufts thus far. I'm thrilled about this as Tufts is a great program, and many of my close friends from Williams now work and live in Boston. However, I also really like Columbia and UPenn, from whom I will not hear until mid-March. I also attempted and failed to find some sort of gainful employment, which meant I got spend a lot of time with my parents, who were also kind enough to hire me for a number of household chores. Alright, so my time is almost up, but I will be sure to let you know how Cape Town is once I settle in!
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Almost Home
It is really hard to believe that I have less than a week left here at Mas Bellpuig. It feels like I have been working my way up to this time for so long, that I can't quite believe it is finally here. Don't get me wrong, I am really excited to see my parents in 6 days, and to get back to the states where I understand what the people around me are saying, and to see all of my friends, but this life is also really wonderful. However, before I start getting too sentimental, let me tell you more stories since last time.
I'm getting used to the rhythm of life here and the cycle of work in the week. It's very pleasant, and the romantic aspects of farming come through very strong in all of the tasks here. That might not be totally clear, imagine with me getting up every morning before the sun is up (not a hard thing to imagine I'm sure) and quickly throwing more layers on before going upstairs to the kitchen, partly because you want breakfast, and partly because it is the only room in the house with a wood stove, and therefore infinitely warmer than the rest of the house. After taking your time with your coffee and muesli, it is time to work, and you descend old stone stairs into the cellar, which is home to not only the tools you will need but a shop stocked with beautiful fruits and veggies and preserves. As you step outside to begin work, the last blush of dawn is still painting the mountains across the valley a slightly rosy color, and making the green of the fields even more brilliant. The air is crisp as you grab a wheelbarrow and follow the boss down the hill to the whichever field needs tending today, and know that by the time two o'clock rolls around, you will be tired and dirty, but that a hot, homecooked lunch followed by a siesta await you. This is the romance of farming, and this is what this place has given me a taste of.
I'm getting used to the rhythm of life here and the cycle of work in the week. It's very pleasant, and the romantic aspects of farming come through very strong in all of the tasks here. That might not be totally clear, imagine with me getting up every morning before the sun is up (not a hard thing to imagine I'm sure) and quickly throwing more layers on before going upstairs to the kitchen, partly because you want breakfast, and partly because it is the only room in the house with a wood stove, and therefore infinitely warmer than the rest of the house. After taking your time with your coffee and muesli, it is time to work, and you descend old stone stairs into the cellar, which is home to not only the tools you will need but a shop stocked with beautiful fruits and veggies and preserves. As you step outside to begin work, the last blush of dawn is still painting the mountains across the valley a slightly rosy color, and making the green of the fields even more brilliant. The air is crisp as you grab a wheelbarrow and follow the boss down the hill to the whichever field needs tending today, and know that by the time two o'clock rolls around, you will be tired and dirty, but that a hot, homecooked lunch followed by a siesta await you. This is the romance of farming, and this is what this place has given me a taste of.
My favorite jobs are always harvesting things, especially the giant heads of broccoli we collected on Friday. For those of you who don't share my passion for broccoli, try to imagine your own favorite vegetable. But anyway, we went down to the broccoli fields this week to find that the 3 days of rain we had had put the broccoli into overdrive and some of these heads of broccoli weighed over a kilo (2.2 lbs)! That's a head of broccoli the size of a dinner plate that I got to cut myself and take up to the kitchen and enjoy. There is nothing better than spending an hour harvesting in the field and being able to look at the tower of boxes filled with fresh beautiful vegetables that you just collected. I will really miss having such a tangible product to my work.
We have been lucky enough to have a few other romanticized excursions, including a night of traditional Catalonian dancing. Gerard took myself and Marisa up into a little village in the mountains where about 40 people of all ages from the surrounds had gathered in a little pavilion to listen to live, traditional Catalan music and dance. The band consisted of three men, the leader of whom was an impressive musician who was often playing a flute with one hand and simultaneously a drum with the other. The other men played a mixture of guitars, flutes, drums, bagpipes (yes, bagpipes) and castenettes depending on the song. The dances also varied. Some of them involved the whole group dancing together in a circle sort of like a Spanish version of a line-dance, but others involved dancing in couples, for which Gerard alternated between dancing with myself and Marisa. Dancing with Gerard was really fun because he was not only a great dancer, but a great teacher. He taught me dances called "the Scottish" and the "mazurca" (there is little chance that I spelled that correctly), which were both simple to begin with but he complicated them with spins and twirls by the end. As we were driving home, Gerard also told me that I dance very well, which means I can die happy having been complimented on my dancing by a Spaniard.
Marisa and I have also been enjoying exploring some of the small towns in the area. Last week was Centelles, a really tiny but beautiful village in the mountains, and this week we went to the beach town of Sitges, a town about 30 minutes outside Barcelona by train. The beaches were wonderful, and we mostly just lay on the beach and read that afternoon before wandering around the city a bit that night and splitting a picher of sangria and some really wonderful tapas. Sitges had a quite a bit going on in addition to the beaches. There was a horror film festival going on (Jud I wish you could have been there to tell me if you had heard of any of the directors), which is supposed to be pretty legit, and we saw no less than 3 weddings. The weddings absolutely fit with the town, in fact Marisa and I were commenting on the fact that we wouldn't have minded getting married there. However, at the rate I'm going, my dream wedding would be more of a world tour with receptions in Gamla Stan, Nerja, Frigliana, and Sitges.
We were also lucky enough to convince Gerard to let us take a Thursday night off and go to the medieval town of Girona which is also about an hour outside of Barcelona. It was a truly magical little town. The whole town is made of beautiful stone buildings with narrow streets and a balconied apartments with flower pots overflowing over the railings. And, much to my delight, lots of stairs. The old wall which once enclosed the city also still stands, and in much the same way as Castillo de Gibralfaro, affords really wonderful views of the city and mountains. Marisa and I went for a really lovely walk along this wall, which terminated at an archeaological garden. Basically, it was a chamber which used to be enclosed by the wall (though I don't know what it was used for), but is now home to lots of trees and flower gardens.
Well, some time has passed since I initially wrote this post, so I figure it is high time I posted it. I promise there will be more pictures and a final post on my end adventures (and there have been quite a few) in Spain in the next week, since I will be back home then!
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Slowly but Surely
It is amazing how much one can learn in a week and a half. Having been in Vic (which is a beautiful town about an hour north of Barcelona) at Mas Bellpuig (Bell-pooch) for a little more than a week now, my Spanish has vastly improved. This is not to say that I can understand people speaking Spanish on the street, but if my host Gerard speaks to me slowly and uses very simple words, I can follow the thread of the conversation and make simple responses. Hooray for learning.
My time here got off to a rather rocky start because Gerard was away for the first two days I was here, and no one in the house spoke more than a little English. So I spent two days relying pretty solely upon charade worthy hand gestures and sound effects. However, now that Gerard is back and I have been joined by another American WWOOFer named Marisa who just graduated from Yale, as well as a really wonderful young German family, things have been a lot better. The house itself is really beautiful, and parts of the original structure date to the 12th century. Gerard's family has owned it for roughly 30 generations. There is no doubt that the house has the weight of history behind it, the finished parts are really beautiful with high ceiling and exposed beams, and the unfinished parts (aka zona de WWOOFer) have old wood and stone revealed, and make it feel like I am living in a castle. We just started to work on renovating and finishing zona de WWOOFer, which has been a very interesting experience involving chipping away at these old stone walls. I've been lucky thus far, and for space reasons, my room is in the finished part, and easily 3 times as big as the caravan in Nerja, and there is a chandelier hanging over my bed. Pure luxury. I really wish that, like the kitchen table in Bossgarden, this house could come alive and tell me stories of the things it has seen.
The work has been hard but varied and enjoyable here. The daily schedule is very relaxed and very Spanish. We start work at 8...or 8:15...or 8:30...or 9, and work until about 2 when we have lunch, which always takes over an hour, and then it is siesta time for the WWOOFers at least, and we are free for the rest of the day. We usually eat an evening meal at around 9 or 9:30, and then sit and chat until bed. My jobs have mostly been in the field and have included harvesting potatoes, different types of beans, peeling about 12 kilos of garlic so we can plant it, and planting fava beans. There are also a bunch of animals here, including cows, chickens, pigs (which always sound and smell just wonderful), cats, a big beautiful horse named Moreno, and a dog named Bobby. The food we have been eating has been really, really good, and I have had to be very diligent about portion control. We have mostly been cooking for ourselves, but every so often we get the leftovers from Gerard's parents or from his grandmother, and they can cook, let me tell you. I've been taking notes on good ideas to incorporate into my own cooking when I get home, but I don't think it will be the same without the garden fresh ingredients. One can hope though.
So far I don't have too many adventures to report. I have been into Vic twice, to get coffee and a tour of the city with Gerard and the other WWOOFers, and to go to the market which takes place every Saturday. The market is a pretty incredible scene. There is a big plaza in the middle of the city which vendor upon vendor squeeze into and sell everything from bread and pasteries, to live chickens and cheap clothing. I'm also pretty sure the entire population of the city squeezes into this market, such that the atmosphere is bustling with the energy of both shopping and weekly socializing. It is really exciting for someone who has never seen a market like this before, like me.
A street in Vic, the little spot is Bobby who followed Marisa and I for the entirety of our 6 km walk in
A view of the fields and mountains on my running route
My time here got off to a rather rocky start because Gerard was away for the first two days I was here, and no one in the house spoke more than a little English. So I spent two days relying pretty solely upon charade worthy hand gestures and sound effects. However, now that Gerard is back and I have been joined by another American WWOOFer named Marisa who just graduated from Yale, as well as a really wonderful young German family, things have been a lot better. The house itself is really beautiful, and parts of the original structure date to the 12th century. Gerard's family has owned it for roughly 30 generations. There is no doubt that the house has the weight of history behind it, the finished parts are really beautiful with high ceiling and exposed beams, and the unfinished parts (aka zona de WWOOFer) have old wood and stone revealed, and make it feel like I am living in a castle. We just started to work on renovating and finishing zona de WWOOFer, which has been a very interesting experience involving chipping away at these old stone walls. I've been lucky thus far, and for space reasons, my room is in the finished part, and easily 3 times as big as the caravan in Nerja, and there is a chandelier hanging over my bed. Pure luxury. I really wish that, like the kitchen table in Bossgarden, this house could come alive and tell me stories of the things it has seen.
The work has been hard but varied and enjoyable here. The daily schedule is very relaxed and very Spanish. We start work at 8...or 8:15...or 8:30...or 9, and work until about 2 when we have lunch, which always takes over an hour, and then it is siesta time for the WWOOFers at least, and we are free for the rest of the day. We usually eat an evening meal at around 9 or 9:30, and then sit and chat until bed. My jobs have mostly been in the field and have included harvesting potatoes, different types of beans, peeling about 12 kilos of garlic so we can plant it, and planting fava beans. There are also a bunch of animals here, including cows, chickens, pigs (which always sound and smell just wonderful), cats, a big beautiful horse named Moreno, and a dog named Bobby. The food we have been eating has been really, really good, and I have had to be very diligent about portion control. We have mostly been cooking for ourselves, but every so often we get the leftovers from Gerard's parents or from his grandmother, and they can cook, let me tell you. I've been taking notes on good ideas to incorporate into my own cooking when I get home, but I don't think it will be the same without the garden fresh ingredients. One can hope though.
So far I don't have too many adventures to report. I have been into Vic twice, to get coffee and a tour of the city with Gerard and the other WWOOFers, and to go to the market which takes place every Saturday. The market is a pretty incredible scene. There is a big plaza in the middle of the city which vendor upon vendor squeeze into and sell everything from bread and pasteries, to live chickens and cheap clothing. I'm also pretty sure the entire population of the city squeezes into this market, such that the atmosphere is bustling with the energy of both shopping and weekly socializing. It is really exciting for someone who has never seen a market like this before, like me.
The best looking vegetable stand at the market
More views of the market, and Gerard's back
A street in Vic, the little spot is Bobby who followed Marisa and I for the entirety of our 6 km walk in
A view of the fields and mountains on my running route
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Hejdo Sverige, Hola Espana
Hello friends I apologize for the long interval between this and my last post, I have been busy with work and play. I am currently writing from the town of Nerja, which is about an hour east of Malaga on the Southern coast of Spain. Life here is difficult, I am living and working at a Donkey Sanctuary which has a view of the mountains to one side and a view of the beach to the other. But I will return to this.
My time at Hornudden ended quite pleasantly. Judith and I became quite close with three English girls who came for two weeks, and ended up going to the Popaganda music festival in Stockholm with them. This was my first music festival and I had a blast. I had only heard of two bands that were performing before, Belle and Sebastian and Robyn, but pretty much every other act was really fun and entertaining and played really great music. If you like Indie/folk music I really recommend First Aid Kit, which is made up of two Swedish sisters with really nice voices. The Hurt and Hot Chip are also fun, but both more dancey. The whole trip was quite an adventure which involved getting rather lost, sneaking into hostels, and being stunned at how attractive and well dressed the Swedes are. I am sure that I will never again be surrounded by so many high cheek bones and blonde hair.
After Hornudden I took four days to take trains down to Spain. While this was certainly neither the most cost or time efficient means to make that journey, it meant that I got to spend the night in Hamburg, a day and night in Paris, take my first night train, and see the beautiful country side of Sweden, Germany, France and Spain which I otherwise would have missed. Spending the day wandering the streets of Paris, eating unreal cake and reading in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower more than justified any other inconvenience associated with that trip.
But on to Spain. I am loving my time here, though I cannot fool myself and say that I am getting the opportunity to immerse myself in Spanish culture. Unbeknownst to me when I made plans to come here, Nerja is a very popular place for British vacationers and has a very significant British ex-pat community. Thus the people I work with and for at the Sanctuary as well as most of the people who visit are British. My day begins at 9 AM by putting all of the donkeys, goats, and horses back in their proper pens after having let out to wander at night. We then feed and water them, and I usually take care of the making sure that the animals that need medication get it. At this point we begin the process of mucking out which usually takes about an hour or an hour and a half. It is more tedious than gross, I am happy to report. Once that is done we take a coffee break, and woven throughout this time we are helping visitors and telling them about the donkeys. At 1 the donkeys get fed again, and then we close (like everything else in Spain) from 2 until 5, during which time I usually eat lunch and nap. We open again from 5-6, which is just enough time to feed everyone once more and let them out for the night. From then on I am free for the evening.
During the evenings I have been exploring Nerja with Kerry, a 19 year old English girl. We have been having quite a ball discovering and sampling many of the tapas bars in town, which are wonderfully inexpensive and tasty. We can get a glass of wine and a tapas for about $2. The town itself is really cute and the right size to go exploring in. However, it has not seduced me in the way that a village about 10 miles away in the mountains has. I visited the village of Frigliana on one of my days off and was breathless. It is a white village, which means that all of the houses are white plaster, but the doors and shutters are brilliant turquoise-blue. Because the village is in the mountains, everything is very vertical and there are steps everywhere which are paved with beautiful tiles. The colors of the flowers against the white houses make them seem brighter and more vibrant, and combine this with the delicate scent of those flowers and rifts of Spanish guitar blowing on the breeze and wandering around this village really feels like falling in love.
My other big day off adventures have been a day trip to Malaga to the Castillo de Gibralfaro and a hike up the Rio Chillar in search of a waterfall. The trip to Malaga was wonderful. The Castillo was an old Moorish fortress initially built in the 800 high above the city, so walking around the walls gives impressive views of the city, mountains, and ocean. We also wandered around the old part of Malaga which has some beautiful churches and adorable backstreets. I am finding more and more that my favorite thing to do in a new city is simply wander the little streets and let it reveal all of its secrets to me. The hike to the waterfall was unsuccessful in terms of finding the waterfall, but we did have a really lovely hike up into the mountains and in a crystal clear stream through beautiful gorges. The river was never more than shin deep, and it was a really neat way to adventure into the mountains. Well, unfortunately my time here in Nerja is coming to an end. I will be leaving here on Friday morning to travel to Vic, which is about an hour north of Barcelona, and the location of the last farm on my adventure. It’s hard to believe it is already come to that, and I will let you know how it is!
A view of Malaga and the interior of the Castillo
A tree in the courtyard of the Castillo which I thought was really really awesome
A view of Malaga and the port from the Castillo
The river we chased waterfalls up
Me, Lola (the goat) and David Villa (the donkey, not the footballer)
Kerri and I with Chica and David
Me and Conan, our resident BFG Andalucian Donkey
Me, Lola, and the teenage boy donkeys, who acted exactly as you would expect teenage male donkeys to act.
Shearing Chuletta, our very shy, but now very stylish sheep
Feliz, with a view of the mountains in the background. Ironically, this is the spot with the best view on the property, and also home to the manure pile.
The beach, about a 10 minute walk from work. I don´t know how I manage.
Frigliana
More of Frigliana, viewed from the rose garden
My time at Hornudden ended quite pleasantly. Judith and I became quite close with three English girls who came for two weeks, and ended up going to the Popaganda music festival in Stockholm with them. This was my first music festival and I had a blast. I had only heard of two bands that were performing before, Belle and Sebastian and Robyn, but pretty much every other act was really fun and entertaining and played really great music. If you like Indie/folk music I really recommend First Aid Kit, which is made up of two Swedish sisters with really nice voices. The Hurt and Hot Chip are also fun, but both more dancey. The whole trip was quite an adventure which involved getting rather lost, sneaking into hostels, and being stunned at how attractive and well dressed the Swedes are. I am sure that I will never again be surrounded by so many high cheek bones and blonde hair.
After Hornudden I took four days to take trains down to Spain. While this was certainly neither the most cost or time efficient means to make that journey, it meant that I got to spend the night in Hamburg, a day and night in Paris, take my first night train, and see the beautiful country side of Sweden, Germany, France and Spain which I otherwise would have missed. Spending the day wandering the streets of Paris, eating unreal cake and reading in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower more than justified any other inconvenience associated with that trip.
But on to Spain. I am loving my time here, though I cannot fool myself and say that I am getting the opportunity to immerse myself in Spanish culture. Unbeknownst to me when I made plans to come here, Nerja is a very popular place for British vacationers and has a very significant British ex-pat community. Thus the people I work with and for at the Sanctuary as well as most of the people who visit are British. My day begins at 9 AM by putting all of the donkeys, goats, and horses back in their proper pens after having let out to wander at night. We then feed and water them, and I usually take care of the making sure that the animals that need medication get it. At this point we begin the process of mucking out which usually takes about an hour or an hour and a half. It is more tedious than gross, I am happy to report. Once that is done we take a coffee break, and woven throughout this time we are helping visitors and telling them about the donkeys. At 1 the donkeys get fed again, and then we close (like everything else in Spain) from 2 until 5, during which time I usually eat lunch and nap. We open again from 5-6, which is just enough time to feed everyone once more and let them out for the night. From then on I am free for the evening.
During the evenings I have been exploring Nerja with Kerry, a 19 year old English girl. We have been having quite a ball discovering and sampling many of the tapas bars in town, which are wonderfully inexpensive and tasty. We can get a glass of wine and a tapas for about $2. The town itself is really cute and the right size to go exploring in. However, it has not seduced me in the way that a village about 10 miles away in the mountains has. I visited the village of Frigliana on one of my days off and was breathless. It is a white village, which means that all of the houses are white plaster, but the doors and shutters are brilliant turquoise-blue. Because the village is in the mountains, everything is very vertical and there are steps everywhere which are paved with beautiful tiles. The colors of the flowers against the white houses make them seem brighter and more vibrant, and combine this with the delicate scent of those flowers and rifts of Spanish guitar blowing on the breeze and wandering around this village really feels like falling in love.
My other big day off adventures have been a day trip to Malaga to the Castillo de Gibralfaro and a hike up the Rio Chillar in search of a waterfall. The trip to Malaga was wonderful. The Castillo was an old Moorish fortress initially built in the 800 high above the city, so walking around the walls gives impressive views of the city, mountains, and ocean. We also wandered around the old part of Malaga which has some beautiful churches and adorable backstreets. I am finding more and more that my favorite thing to do in a new city is simply wander the little streets and let it reveal all of its secrets to me. The hike to the waterfall was unsuccessful in terms of finding the waterfall, but we did have a really lovely hike up into the mountains and in a crystal clear stream through beautiful gorges. The river was never more than shin deep, and it was a really neat way to adventure into the mountains. Well, unfortunately my time here in Nerja is coming to an end. I will be leaving here on Friday morning to travel to Vic, which is about an hour north of Barcelona, and the location of the last farm on my adventure. It’s hard to believe it is already come to that, and I will let you know how it is!
One of the outer walls of Castillo de Gibralfaro
A view of Malaga and the interior of the Castillo
A tree in the courtyard of the Castillo which I thought was really really awesome
A view of Malaga and the port from the Castillo
The river we chased waterfalls up
Me, Lola (the goat) and David Villa (the donkey, not the footballer)
Kerri and I with Chica and David
Me and Conan, our resident BFG Andalucian Donkey
Me, Lola, and the teenage boy donkeys, who acted exactly as you would expect teenage male donkeys to act.
Shearing Chuletta, our very shy, but now very stylish sheep
Feliz, with a view of the mountains in the background. Ironically, this is the spot with the best view on the property, and also home to the manure pile.
The beach, about a 10 minute walk from work. I don´t know how I manage.
Frigliana
More of Frigliana, viewed from the rose garden
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